What Is Tree Pruning Tree Pruning Definition
Written by craig braddick

What is Tree Pruning? – Tree Pruning Definition

Tree pruning is a horticultural practice where you selectively remove certain parts of a tree, such as branches, buds and roots. Read on to learn more.

Reasons to Prune

Each cut can change the overall growth of the tree, no branch should be removed unless it is needed. Reasons for pruning are for the removal of dead branches, to reduce risk of falling branches. Trees can also be pruned to allow more light and air penetration to the landscape or ground below the tree. In some cases, mature trees are pruned as corrective or preventative steps.

When to Prune

Most regular pruning to remove disease-ridden, dead or weak libs can be completed at any time of the year. Generally, wound growth and closure are increased if pruning takes place prior to the spring growth flush. A couple of tree diseases, like oak wilt, develop when pruning wounds, providing access to pathogens.

Pruning Techniques

Certain types of pruning may be necessary to manage an adult tree in a healthy, safe, and appealing condition.

Cleaning is removing dead, dying, diseased-ridden, weakly joined, and low-strength branches from the crown of the tree.

Thinning is selective branch removal to improve the tree structure and to increase light penetration and air movement throughout the crown. Correct thinning opens up the foliage of a tree, lessens the weight on more substantial limbs, and helps keep the tree’s natural shape.

Raising removes lower branches from a tree to allow clearance for buildings, vehicles, and people.

Reduction reduces the size of a tree, usually for utility line clearance. Reducing a tree’s height or spread is generally done by pruning back the tree leaders, and branch ends to secondary branches that are sufficiently large enough to take over the terminal roles. In comparison to topping, reduction helps keep the form and structural durability of the tree.

Pruning Young Trees

Robust primary branches should be created while the tree is still young. These limbs are known as scaffold branches and are the groundwork for a mature tree. Properly trained young trees will  develop a strong structure needing less corrective pruning as they age. For a lot of young trees, try to keep a single dominant leader growing upwards. Don’t prune back the tip of this leader or let secondary branches exceed the central leader.

Pruning Palms

Palm pruning removes dying or dead flowers, fronds and/or fruiting clusters. Pruning is typically conducted at least twice a year. Coconuts can be pruned as frequently as every 3 to 4 months to minimize the risk of injury or damage from falling coconuts. It is best for the palm if green fronds remain unharmed. Palms that are over pruned may have a slower growth rate and can attract pests. Climbing spikes should not be used to climb palms for pruning because they harm the palms trunk.

Please Don’t Top Trees!

Topping is the most harmful tree pruning technique known. Yet, regardless of more than 25 years of literature detailing its adverse effects, topping continues to be a commonly used Topping is the cutting of tree branches into stubs or to sideway branches that are not substantial enough to take on the terminal role.

Topping Alternatives

Every now and then a tree must be reduced in height or spread, like for clearing utility lines. There are suggested techniques for doing so. If larger limbs are required to be shortened, it should be pruned back to a sideways branch. This technique of branch reduction preserves the natural form of the tree. However, if significant cuts are needed, the tree may not be able to close over and let its wounds compartmentalize.

AP Nursery Sells Fruit Trees

AP Nursery is excited to help you transform your outdoors with fruit and citrus trees in Mesa, Gilbert, Queen Creek, Tempe, and the rest of the East Phoenix Valley. Contact us, today!

June Gardening Tips
Written by craig braddick

Cactus Drooping Causes

Four factors impact the survival of cacti when you are caring for them:

  • Too much or too little water
  • Too much or too little light
  • Pests
  • Temperature fluctuation

All four of these (and sometimes a mixture of more than one) will strain your cactus causing odd behavior.

Cacti are really succulent and hardy plants needing little water or maintenance to grow, but some care is required. Drooping or sagging branches may be indicative that your cactus is stressed and not getting enough water or sunlight or damage caused by mealybugs or freeze damage can also lead to your cactus acting this way. Read on to learn more regarding how to tackle these prickly issues!

Improper Watering

Watering a cactus can become complicated. When dehydrated a cactus will often turn soft and become violet or purple in appearance. It can further show a wrinkled appearance causing the branches to droop. Cacti that is over-watered will show these signs and may develop root rot. Using potting soil will assure the cactus has the correct draingave and watering can help resolve the issues of dehydration as well repotting root-bound plants to a larger pot. In the case of overwatering, just let the soil dry out before proceeding further. Cactus only need water when the top 2 inches of soil are dried out and then only enough water to permit some drainage through the holes to the base of the pot. When water drains from the holes you can be sure the cactus is receiving adequate moisture.

Inadequate Lighting

Cactus enjoy good deals of bright light and heat. When they are not getting this, the cactus can start to droop. If this occurs during winter, the cactus may need some artificial light. In the spring and summer, however, cactus do very well if their pots are left outdoors.

Woodlice or Mealybugs

White with a cotton-like appearance, these pests draw juice from your cactus plant. A great amount of feeding by mealybugs usually leads to drooping branches. Mealybugs on singular plantings can be easily killed by hand and another alternative is rinsing the cactus with a mixture of liquid dish soap and water or an insecticidal soap and then allowing the cactus to stabilize for a day before rinsing off the soap from the cactus with water. Direct sunlight should be avoided during this time. This may take a couple of efforts since repeated applications are required to remove any mealy bugs that have hatched. The removal of flourishing growth, that mealy bugs love, may also help decrease their population.

Freeze Damage

Many cactus plants are indigenous to frost-free environments, if the temperature drops below freezing for even a couple hours, damage may result. This shows as blackening of the parts of the cactus that were exposed. In a couple of weeks, the black areas dry out and the cactus branches may droop. If the cold temperatures only happened for a short period, then the damage is likely superficial and your cactus will likely grow out of it, but this could take a couple of years. Water, adequate sunlight and warmth will help.  If they are outdoor plants, they will do well in locations getting radiant heat at night. When temperatures fall, cactus grown in a garden should be covered with a sheet giving further warmth and cactus in pots should be taken indoors.

A&P Nursery Sells Cacti & Succulents In Arizona

A&P Nursery is excited to help you transform your outdoors with cactus & succulents in Mesa, Gilbert, Queen Creek, Tempe, and the rest of the East Phoenix Valley. Contact us, today!

Growing Indoor Cactus Plants
Written by craig braddick

Growing Indoor Cactus Plants

Although Arizona is renowned for its enormous natural outdoor population of cactus -a cactus can also thrive brilliantly indoors under the correct conditions. The two types of cacti that do well indoors are the desert cacti and the forest cacti. Both are capable of blossoming beautiful looking blooms but they grow in very different ways.

Tips For Growing Indoor Desert Cacti

Desert cacti are easy to grow and produce outstandingly beautiful blooms and flowers. Although there are many kinds of desert cacti, the following tips will help regardless of the type you have:

  •  A strong light source is required for desert cacti especially in the cooler part of the year. On the other hand, it is possible to scorch a cactus in the direct heat of the summer if they have not been previously hardened.
  • 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature for desert cacti in the summer and around 55 degrees in the winter months. Remember cacti are used to very cold and chilly winter nights in their natural outside habitat.
  • Water the desert cacti whenever the compost starts to dry in summer time but in winter time only add water if you notice the plant starting to shrivel.
  • You can pot the cactus in soil with the addition of perlite that increased drainage and aeration. It is not often the case desert cacti needs repotting and it may thrive more if it is slightly underpotted.
  • If you can use a specialized cactus fertilizer it can be of great benefit during the growing season. Non cacti fertilizers usually do not produce the same results so a specialist fertilizer is really a good idea!
  • Overwatering a desert cacti is the most prevalent concern. It may cause rot at the base of the plant or at the tips of the plant. If you discover your cactus already has rot, it may be time to establish new plants by utilizing cuttings.

Tips For Growing Indoor Forest Cacti

Often found in tropical and subtropical regions, Forest Cacti frequently cling to trees and bloom in many colors. They also make great hanging plants. The following hints should help you grow fantastic indoor forest cacti:

  • Forest cacti prefer bright but not direct sunlight.
  • During their growing season, forest cacti thrive when the temperature is anywhere between 55 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. However, during the rest cycle of the plant, a cooler temperature of around 50 degrees Fahrenheit is essential. During the summer you can water the plant as you would any other household plant. When the plant is resting, it only needs to be watered when the soil is dry.
  • Forest cacti needs to be repotted at the start if each growing season with a regular potting mix.
  • Forest cacti works well with standard fertilizers but be sure to taper them down during the course of the growing cycle.
  • If you are fortunate enough to own a Christmas cactus and you want to get multiple blooms from it, a little preparation is needed. Before you want the plant to flower, cut it back and induce a period of rest where fertilizing and watering is reduced and the plant keep in a cool (50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit) environment. After 30 to 60 days, take the plant to a warmer place and then resume the watering process. Shortly, buds will start to show. It is also required to move the plant outside during the summer.
  • Forest cacti do not need to be watered heavily during the plants rest cycle.

A&P Nursery Sells Cacti & Succulents In Arizona

A&P Nursery is excited to help you transform your outdoors with cactus & succulents in Mesa, Gilbert, Queen Creek, Tempe, and the rest of the East Phoenix Valley. Contact us, today!

Best Time To Plant Fruit trees In Arizona
Written by craig braddick

Best Time To Plant Fruit Trees In Arizona

The Climate of Arizona is ideal for growing a variety of beautiful fruit trees that produce wonderful, tasty fruit the entire year. The experts at AP Nursery can help you select ideal trees for your growing conditions but read on to learn more about selecting the best deciduous fruit trees for the Arizona climate.

Understanding Varieties

A variety of plant in basic terms differs from similar relatives because of a genetic trait that is consistent. One fruit may grow well in a desert climate but another fruit of the same family may not. It is obviously beneficial to know the variety to select. Producing the fruit is a reasonably easy task if simple principles of Botanics are applied to decide the selected varieties.

Climate Conditions

A tree will inevitably fail to grow when it is not suited to the prevailing environmental conditions. It is tough to correct mistakes once the tree has been planted. Therefore, it is crucial the right tree is selected prior to planting.

Tree Selection

In the southern part of Arizona, the best fruit trees are the ones who have a low chill requirement and excellent pollination. Deciduous fruit trees lose their leaves in the winter months. Examples would include:

  • Apricots
  • Apples
  • Peaches
  • Pecans
  • Plums

Chill requirement does not apply to citrus fruit because they are what is known as “self fruitful.”

Cold Chilling

Also known as chill units and cold chilling, these are terms describing why certain trees need a total amount of hours per annum between 32 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit so leaf buds and flowers can grow in a conventional manner. Believe it or not, the buds of these plants have the ability to track the number of hours that accumulate over a year where the temperature is between these two limits. Conversely, the downside to this botanical process is when the temperature rises above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, it subtracts that time from the time it is between 32 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. When trees do not get the required number of chill units, they will show signs of extended and delayed bloom, leaf buds will be delayed, and the fruit will be less and of poorer quality. Different varieties of trees require different totals of chill units. Some need 1,000 or more hours of shill unites before they produce fruit. In the Arizona desert, it is seldom the case chill units exceed 600 for the year.

Fruits That Thrive

Some examples of fruit that require the least amount of chill units and do very well growing in southern Arizona include:

  • Dorsett Golden Apple
  • Anna Golden Apple
  • Orient Pear
  • Leconte Pear
  • Flordahome Pear
  • Flordaprince peach
  • Castlebrite apricot
  • Katy apricot
  • Gold Kist Apricot
  • Satsuma Japanese Plum
  • Santa Rosa Plum

Pollination

If you want fruit, pollen from the male parts of a flower must transfer themselves to the female portion enabling fertilization to take place. Certain fruit trees are self-fruitful meaning only a single tree has to be planted in order for fruit to be produced.  However some fruit trees do not do this well, therefore it is vital to plant another tree, of a different variety but the same type. This would allow cross-pollination to occur so the fruit can be produced each and every year.

AP Nursery Sells Fruit Trees

AP Nursery is excited to help you transform your outdoors with fruit and citrus trees in Mesa, Gilbert, Queen Creek, Tempe, and the rest of the East Phoenix Valley. Contact us, today!

How Much Do Fruit Trees Cost
Written by craig braddick

How Much Do Fruit Trees Cost?

The average cost of a fruit tree with proper maintenance and labor for its first 4 years is $236.25. The total cost for the first 4 years of the life of a fruit tree with proper maintenance and labor is $945.

In our example, we are going to be using apple trees. Do not forget the experts at AP Nursery can help you choose the tree you want and the tree most likely to be successfully grown. With apple trees, you need to buy them as a pair so they pollinate with one another. It is best to order the trees in December, that way they will arrive in February with bare-rooted and ready to be planted. Also, some of the costs can be offset if you have some of the equipment on hand. Keep in mind you may also save labor costs but if you are not an expert gardener and want to maximize your chances of success, the labor charges are well worth the investment.

You can learn more about the fruit tree growing process here.

Year One:

  • Two apple trees: $50.
  • One-hour labor for planting: $20.
  • Spray materials (that should last several years) $45.
  • Sprayer: $25.
  • Ten-foot tripod ladder: $130.
  • Lopper for pruning: $45.
  • Hand shears for pruning: $25.
  • Handsaw for pruning: $30.

Year one total costs: $390.

Year Two:

  • Three insecticide sprays with labor: $30
  • Two fungicide sprays with labor: $20.
  • Training and pruning with labor: $20.
  • Fruit thinning with labor: $20.
  • Cleanup of fruit and leaves in the fall: $20.
  • Four pheromone lures and traps: $30.
  • Fertilizer: $10.

Year two total costs: $150.

Year Three:

  • Three insecticide sprays with labor: $30.
  • Fungicides: $30.
  • Two fungicide sprays with labor: $20.
  • Training and pruning with labor: $20
  • Fruit thinning with labor: $20.
  • Clean up of fruit and leaves in the fall: $20.
  • Four pheromones lures and traps: $30.
  • Netting for the trees: $25.

Year three total costs: $205.

Year Four:

  • Insecticides and fungicides: $40.
  • Fertilizer: $10.
  • 4 pheromone lures and traps: $30.
  • Three insecticide sprays with labor: $30.
  • Two fungicide sprays with labor: $20.
  • Training and pruning with labor: $20.
  • Fruit thinning with labor: $30.
  • Clean up of fruit and leaves in the fall: $20.

Year four total costs: $200.

AP Nursery Sells Fruit Trees

AP Nursery is excited to help you transform your outdoors with fruit and citrus trees in Mesa, Gilbert, Queen Creek, Tempe, and the rest of the East Phoenix Valley. Contact us, today!

Tree Planting Cost
Written by webtechs

How Much Does Tree Planting Cost?

On average medium tree planting costs $225, small tree planting costs $106, and large tree planting costs $2,423 for the US in 2019 according to HowMuch.

Tree planting can add to your properties value and increase the curb appeal of your home and may also serve as a privacy buffer from your neighbors. You will find that the cost to plant an average tree will vary with the size and type of tree, how much access to the property, and labor rates.

Tree Planting Cost

Small tree planting cost: $106 per tree. Small trees come 4 to 6 feet tall in a 5-gallon pot; including transport, site prep, tree planting equipment, and miscellaneous planting supplies.

Medium tree planting cost: $255 per tree. Medium trees come 8 to 10 feet tall in a 15-gallon pot; including transport, site prep and cleanup, tree planting equipment, and miscellaneous supplies.

Large tree planting cost: $,2423 per tree. Large trees come 14 to 20 feet tall delivered in a 1 cubic yard box; includes transport, site prep and clean up tree planning equipment, and miscellaneous supplies.

Other Costs And Things To Consider

Permit fees and taxes are not included.

Electric and utility companies might have the authority to stop you from planting around their overhead lines, check with your local utility companies.

When searching for a tree planting service provider, be sure to ask for a detailed written offer (usually fixed-price) from several providers that include proof of:
• Their tree planting business license
• Professional arborist license (often not needed, but couldn’t hurt)
• Liability insurance and workman’s compensation insurance
• Previous customer references
• A time responsibility to complete the work tied to getting paid

Additional information and proof should also be available regarding:

  • Certified by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA)
  • Registered as a Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA) Accredited Business
  • The use of shoe-spikes to climb trees (this should NOT be the case)
  • The removal of living tree material from the tree-top (this should NOT be the case)
  • The disposal of all tree limbs, branches, and cut material; and thoroughly clean up the area
  • A criminal background check on the person or persons who will be on your property
  • A provision of a signed contract that explains everything in detail about the work to be done including an estimate of time on the job site itself and the fixed-price to deliver
  • A valid contractor’s bond on work that surpasses $500

Do It Yourself (DIY) Tree Planting

For smaller trees planting them may be suitable for able DIY persons, though it may require arborist knowledge on how to properly plant and nurture a tree.

A & P Nursery Offers Tree Planting Service In Phoenix, Arizona

A & P Nursery is a tree & plant nursery in Phoenix offering tree planting and more. Learn more about our trees for sale and  tree planting services.